Made-from-scratch brown sugar is not a brand new concept by any stretch, however previously, it wasn’t one thing I ever cared about. Partly, I used to be skeptical {that a} “do-it-yourself” mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses might someway style any higher than “actual” brown sugar…a mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses.
My logic was that, until you bothered to start out with a jar of significantly scrumptious small-batch molasses, there have been no actual positive factors available—a logic that fell aside the second a pal of mine known as in a panic as a result of she was out of brown sugar for her favourite dessert, with company all however on her doorstep. Guiding her by the method of constructing the swap was simple, she did not must drop all the things to drive to the shop, her bourbon pecan layer cake turned out lovely, and I realized the actual worth of do-it-yourself brown sugar: expedience.
In case you ever run out of brown sugar, falling again on a jar of molasses to whip up an emergency batch is a superb plan B—as long as you go about it the suitable approach. At the start, which means utilizing true molasses and never blackstrap, which ought to by no means be utilized in any recipe until it is known as for by title (full report on that matter right here). The second half of the equation is definitely understanding the equation. See, store-bought brown sugar is about 10% molasses by weight, however that does not imply you possibly can simply multiply a given weight of white sugar by 0.1 to find out how a lot molasses is required. At first blush, that calculation makes excellent sense (and that is the components you may see bandied about most frequently on-line), but it surely winds up making the brown sugar too mild. Even lighter than mild brown sugar, which is what most recipes bear in mind.*
Except a recipe calls particularly for “darkish brown sugar,” it is secure to imagine mild brown sugar is what the creator meant. Making darkish brown sugar is about including not simply extra molasses but in addition darker molasses, and, for the aim of this publish, that is a bit extra difficult a subject than I am ready to unpack.
For a cup of white sugar (seven ounces), 10% is about one tablespoon (3/4 ounce), which is fairly handy for folk measuring by quantity. However as soon as the white sugar and molasses are blended collectively, you have bought 7 3/4 ounces whole, making that molasses simply 9% of the entire weight. Now, you could be pondering, “Shut sufficient,” however within the realm of baking, that may be a harmful factor. With no full 10% molasses content material, do-it-yourself variations will behave extra like white sugar than brown, which might have a big effect on cookies particularly, altering how they unfold, rise, and brown. You’ll be able to try a full breakdown of these variations right here.
In an effort to precisely mix your individual mild brown sugar at dwelling, it is necessary to do not forget that for nonetheless a lot molasses you add, that a lot white sugar wants to come back out. Going again to my earlier instance, seven ounces of sugar needs to be lowered to six 1/4 ounces, in order that 3/4 ounce molasses can be 10% of the entire weight. Spelling it out sounds difficult, however do not overthink it. All you must bear in mind is that 6 1/4 ounces of white sugar plus 3/4 ounce molasses equals seven ounces of brown sugar.
You can also make up a giant batch that may preserve for a couple of month, however when you’ve got a scale, you possibly can calculate precisely how a lot white sugar and molasses you may want to switch any given amount of brown sugar. Simply multiply the load of the brown sugar by 10% to learn how a lot molasses you may want, then subtract that quantity from the entire to find out the load of the white sugar you may want. In case you occur to have any flippantly toasted sugar readily available, maybe left over from blind-baking a pie, it may be used like white sugar so as to add some caramel notes that may give do-it-yourself brown sugar a extra nuanced sweetness.
The precise coloration of the outcomes will rely in your particular model of molasses and whether or not or not the sugar is toasted, however you possibly can sometimes count on it to have a considerably redder undertone than conventional brown sugar (possible as a result of deeper brown shades discovered in additional concentrated types of molasses). Ounce for ounce, do-it-yourself brown sugar is extra voluminous than what you discover on the retailer, just because it hasn’t had an opportunity to compact over time. However, as long as it is measured precisely, in each preparation and use, it’s going to behave in a lot the identical approach.
On the left, we’ve samples from a batch of my favourite One-Bowl Oatmeal Cookies made with industrial brown sugar, and, on the suitable, cookies made with DIY brown sugar. Whereas they unfold a bit extra irregularly total, the latter cookies nonetheless averaged about three inches throughout. If I all of a sudden found I used to be 86’d on brown sugar, I might gladly take that discrepancy over the choice of getting no cookies in any respect.
I am going to possible at all times want the comfort of economic brown sugar, which is each inexpensive, dependable, and engaging. However when push involves shove, figuring out find out how to make a comparable brown sugar from scratch is a trick all bakers ought to sustain their sleeves.