Each time we go on a visit to a brand new nation, we attempt to cowl a little bit of the native non-menswear craft alongside the standard tailoring, shirtmaking and shoemaking. 

After we had been in Japan a few years in the past, we visited the grasp blade-maker Sasuke in Sakai. That turned out to be considered one of our favorite ever experiences, and it set the remainder of Japanese craft in some context – their conventional angle to apprentices, for instance.

In Korea final 12 months we did the identical, this time visiting Cheyul, the nation’s largest and most fashionable proponent of conventional lacquer work. 

Lacquer is vital to Korean heritage: it’s the type of factor overseas dignitaries are sometimes given as a present. US President Joe Biden was given a four-drawer chest with purple lacquer just lately; LVMH’s Bernard Arnault was additionally given a bit when he visited. 

And the work is held up as artwork – a ground vase made by Cheyul is held by the Met in New York in its Arts of Korea gallery.

The lacquer comes from native bushes and is tapped in the identical method as maple syrup. It’s clear, however historically was dyed black or purple, constructing as much as 10 layers to be able to create a deep, shimmering impact. At this time artificial dyes are used to create each color. 

The approach additionally usually entails mother-of-pearl, both overlaying objects or being delicately sliced to create patterns and photos. This makes among the outcomes fairly female, and fashionable makes use of right now are for a bride’s marriage ceremony chest or jewelry and jewelry bins. 

The designs will also be fairly floral, which contributes to the identical impression – just like the inserts and handles on a chest like this.  

However Cheyul’s mission is to make the craft related in addition to defending it, so that they work with present artists to use it to new objects, similar to guitars and tube amps. These items, which normally forego mom of pearl, look extra masculine in addition to extra fashionable. 

The massive room vase above is just like the piece on the Met. It has a layer of hemp utilized to the floor to create a pure texture, which the tens of millions of slices of mother-of-pearl are then utilized to. 

Evaluate that to these lattice chests, that are a contemporary interpretation of the identical design – with an aluminium body, much less natural form and angular ornament. The identical approach is used on a barely extra conventional field under. 

The surfaces of these items actually had been gorgeous in particular person, and I believe extra intriguing on a smaller scale as in these bins. However usually the items that attracted me most had been picket tables and stools, maybe as a result of I liked that wealthy brown of the wooden – and items with extra expressionistic designs, similar to this one. 

I wasn’t actually buying, as these little bins had been £500 and the furnishings is within the 1000’s (‘value on request’ is rarely a superb signal). But it surely’s enjoyable to suppose what you’d purchase in the event you may, and it gave us an appreciation of a craft we beforehand knew nothing about. 

That was deepened when Alex [Natt, photographer] and I had been surprisingly given the chance to make a bit ourselves. 

The parameters had been, fortunately, restricted. We every had a tray and a set of mother-of-pearl reduce outs to rearrange. It was exhausting to go mistaken. 

We did our greatest although, usually dropping slivers of pearl into the moist lacquer, after which discovering it exhausting to show them the proper method up, not to mention place them. God is aware of how anybody may create one thing exact and on a big scale. 

Fortunately, once more, Alex uncared for to take any images of the completed consequence, so that you’ll must think about our makes an attempt. 

There are different makers of lacquer in Korea, however they’re usually one or two artisans, and items are made to order. Cheyul, which was established in 1988 with a mission to make this craft extra extensively recognized, is the one considered one of any measurement with inventory. 

It’s solely out there in Korea – of their store, a resort and a division retailer – however they apparently plan to develop abroad. There was an exhibition of the work within the Saatchi Gallery in London in 2015. 

For now, that is about appreciation of a brand new craft, and a suggestion to go to the store in the event you’re in Seoul – it’s monumental, seemingly small at floor stage however then happening and down for 4 flooring. 

cheyul.com

For extra from that Korea journey, see articles right here