August Particular is a brand new shoe model – they launched on-line again in Might – and it’s an fascinating proposition I feel. Snug variations of conventional sneakers which have extra model than most in that mixture, and rugged kinds which are really made in a refined manner.
The rationale the design is sweet is that the founder, Joseph Pollard (under), could be very skilled. He’s been a menswear designer for greater than 20 years, primarily at Polo Ralph Lauren and RRL, the place he ran the outerwear and equipment/sneakers classes at totally different factors.
He’s English and labored for Duffer of St George amongst others within the UK, earlier than going to the US to work for Abercrombie after which Polo. He made a life-style change in 2019 when the household moved to Philadelphia.
“I took a bit time without work, perhaps six months, whereas the youngsters obtained settled in class,” he says. “We’d made one main transfer earlier than – to the US from England – and I knew how laborious it could possibly be. However after that I began enthusiastic about what I wished to do subsequent.”
Joseph wished to do one thing he believed in, made on his personal phrases, which is after all a really Everlasting Fashion-type motivation, tying collectively many manufacturers we cowl. Joseph is, like a lot of these, a product individual in the beginning.
The primary product he created, the Augie idler, got here from a want to make a harder and extra comfy model of Belgian loafers he had worn in New York. “We moved from Brooklyn to the Higher East Aspect when he had children, and I used to put on Belgians on a regular basis,” he says. “I knew the store, and I’d stroll to the workplace in them.
“However after we moved to Philadelphia, that didn’t actually work. I’m positive individuals do put on them right here, however that’s extra of a country-club set than we’re! Mainly I couldn’t put on them to Residence Depot – the town would simply chew them up.”
He’d additionally by no means been a lot of a fan of the Belgian Shoe’s little bow. “It’s too fancy for me. My wardrobe is a mixture of tailoring and workwear – jackets and denim, chambray shirts and loafers. You are able to do that look with a dressy slipper, but it surely’s not my model.
“By the way in which Simon, that may appear a really present look however the Duffer guys have been all doing it again within the day – their commonplace was a Crombie coat, denims and a great shoe.”
OK, so what makes the Augie (and the chukka boot, the model I personal, above left) fascinating?
The very first thing is the final. It’s based mostly on previous 40s and 50s sneakers, which had a barely extra orthopaedic form, curved on the skin line and straighter on the within, with a narrower waist.
The instance of this that almost all readers will likely be accustomed to is the modified final from Alden. However whereas that may look very uncommon, August Particular is extra average. I discover it each very comfy and never the form of factor anybody would discover.
The emphasis on consolation goes via into the development too. The insole has a full-length piece of reminiscence foam, which your foot sinks into in a satisfying manner. The midsole on the loafers is then a chunk of sports activities foam, wrapped in leather-based. That’s what you’ll be able to see between the only and the higher within the pic under.
At first I wasn’t positive about the way in which that sole seems, however I prefer it extra now I admire the practical causes. I additionally like the actual fact it’s not the identical rubber unit that everybody on the earth is slapping on suede loafers, making an attempt to be an Open Stroll or a Belgian with little or no further to supply, apart from maybe cheapness.
The only real on my chukka boot is a extra commonplace Vibram and there isn’t that further foam within the mid-sole, however I’ve nonetheless discovered it extra comfy than every other chukka I personal. I’m not so eager on the distinction between black rubber and pure leather-based within the sole edge and heel, however that’s a private desire and can darker over time. Darker suede or leather-based choices would have much less of a distinction.
The design is predicated off boots issued to US Navy pilots, who presumably had a practical motive for the decrease peak. I wasn’t positive about that peak to start out with, however I relatively prefer it now. I’m undecided I’d have it because the default for my chukkas, but it surely appears a part of this boot’s model and character.
The opposite factor that’s fascinating is August Particular’s mixture of rugged and refined.
The chukka’s higher is one piece of full-grain leather-based, unlined, with a supporting piece across the heel. The thickness of the leather-based offers it a rugged look, however the high quality of it means it’s tender and cozy – extra so than the thinner leather-based on an Alden chukka for instance.
The make is superb, benchmade in Tuscany near the realm the veg-tanned leather-based, laces and different issues come from. The welt is slim for instance, lower near the higher and operating 270 levels across the boot relatively than 360 (so not together with the heel).
Personally I don’t assume these factors make the boot any much less rugged, simply much less chunky in form. I’ve solely worn them with denims and workwear chinos thus far, however I can see how this model may allow them to be a bit dressier – with tailor-made cotton trousers and a cashmere knit for instance.
The loafers didn’t fairly work for me – I appeared to be in between sizes, and whereas the lacing of the chukka made match simpler there, the loafers had no such luxurious. Nonetheless, Lucas has a pair and so they work rather well for him. There are different variations of the idler coming sooner or later too, so I’ll strive these.
The factor I like most in regards to the August Particular sneakers, although, is how good they give the impression of being crushed up. When Joseph got here into the pop-up store in New York lately, that was the factor I favored essentially the most. It’s his look of the loafers with workwear chinos and a free chambray or white oxford shirt that actually appeals to me, I really feel can be related for lots of readers.
I additionally noticed a pair of chukkas on Sean Crowley (an previous colleague of Joseph’s from Ralph Lauren) and so they regarded implausible. I can’t watch for mine to get to that stage.
Some info in anticipation of questions:
- I put on an 9.5 (US) within the chukka, however was between 9.5 and 10 within the idler. My commonplace now in one thing like Edward Inexperienced is 9E (UK). August Particular solely is available in an E width
- August Particular is simply offered on-line for the time being, and is predicated within the US. There is no such thing as a wholesale for the time being, however that may change sooner or later
- The boots are Goodyear welted and could be simply resoled. The loafers are Blake stitched and are more durable – August Particular has no present answer there however is planning to supply a resole service sooner or later, together with on these
- The sneakers are all made in Italy
