Yeah, the collar on this shirt is kinda excessive. I remembered it as quickly as I noticed these pictures – it was one I attempted with the next collar to be able to put on with my A&S tailoring, which all the time has a excessive collar itself. It seems to be good with these items, however it’s actually an excessive amount of for all the pieces else. 

Don’t let that distract you from this swimsuit from the Korean tailor Luca Museo. It’s each excellently minimize and somewhat attention-grabbing. 

Attention-grabbing as a result of the type is kind of excessive however properly hidden. It is in all probability the most important jacket I’ve ever had. The shoulders measure seven inches alongside the seam, which is identical as my A&S (see our Tailor’s Fashion sequence) however a piece of wadding within the sleeve head offers them an additional half inch. We even introduced the shoulders in from their commonplace width, as a result of I assumed it seemed too huge.

Aside from that wadding on the finish, the shoulder is just evenly padded, with nothing however canvas on the finish nearest the neck. This makes all the pieces lighter, but in addition means you typically get a fold midway alongside the shoulder whenever you transfer or flip. That is proven just a little bit within the picture under. 

There’s additionally numerous drape within the chest, and the armhole isn’t significantly small. The result’s that whereas the highest half of the jacket is each flattering and comfy, it additionally strikes as you progress, using up and off the neck just a little.

I discussed in my introductory article on Luca Museo that they’ve fairly just a few shoppers who’re common fitness center goers, and so are fairly constructed. I can see this minimize working properly on them. There could be loads of room for the pecs and traps and lats with out the fabric being tight, they usually’d look even larger than they really are. 

None of this could take away from the execution of their specific type, which is great. The jacket is clear within the entrance and good on the again, with solely just a little drape underneath the blades (regardless of the precise quantity there). 

The lapels have a pleasant curve from the chest right down to the buttoning level; the ‘barchetta’ breast pocket is refined. The one challenge I may discover anyplace was on the waistcoat, which may do with being nearer to the again of the neck. 

Pleats aren’t a simple factor to suit on me, usually splaying (after which staying splayed) by my hips and seat. However the backward-facing pleats on these trousers sit very cleanly (as did these from fellow Korean tailors Assisi).

The ending can also be good – as you possibly can see within the close-up pictures above and under. Having spoken to just a few prospects of Korean tailoring whereas in Seoul, this appears to be the world tailors have improved most lately. 

The one factor I don’t like concerning the ending is the prominence of the decide stitching. There’s fairly a little bit of it and it’s a little giant. Virtually just like the machine stitching that some manufacturers placed on their ready-made fits, to be able to make them look hand crafted. 

That AMF machine (named after the unique maker, American Machine and Foundry) has been so overused in latest a long time that I wonder if anybody will get the connection any extra – that these ornamental stitches are supposed to replicate the practical handwork of a tailor. 

I defined in my first article on Luca Museo that this swimsuit was one thing they needed to make for me, and so among the decisions had been theirs.

This consists of the waistcoat, which I wouldn’t usually have, and the purple lining. Truly, I simply remembered at present that my first ever bespoke navy swimsuit had purple lining, from Graham Browne approach again in 2010. 

The waistcoat additionally necessitated high-waisted trousers – there’s nothing worse than trousers that go away a ‘muffin prime’ of blouse materials between their waistband and the underside of a waistcoat. My trousers aren’t, after all, usually excessive waisted (true excessive rise, up above the hip bones). However it’s good to have this feature within the wardrobe alongside my regular minimize. There are a few shorter sweaters and such that might with the additional protection.

I used to be keen on making an attempt a navy swimsuit, and I’ll use it for smarter events. Possibly not in such a Metropolis shirt-and-tie mixture, however it’s nonetheless enjoyable to point out these sorts of seems to be. A printed silk tie (usually Hermes, like this) with a blue shirt and a navy swimsuit was once such a uniform.

The fabric is from Lessers, utilizing Lumb’s Golden Bale wool. It’s mild and high quality, but in addition dry and with some good texture. 4 ply, 370g. 

Sadly it isn’t presently accessible, however it does remind me that there are some beautiful related worsteds within the No.305 Lumbs Golden Bale assortment, for anybody in search of a high-quality suiting with out the smooth or shine of most superfines.

The shirt with the tall collar is from D’Avino, in a superfine gray/blue cotton. Right here, the superfine fibre creates a large quantity of wrinkling, as partially seen above. I don’t thoughts this an excessive amount of, as I do know what comes consequently – that very mild, very mushy feeling. But it surely is not what I might suggest to most individuals, significantly given the accompanying excessive costs. Extra on superfine cotton shirtings right here. 

That shirt collar is definitely solely 0.5cm taller than my normal shirts, that are 4.5cm (measured on the again of the collar stand). It’s superb that half a centimetre makes a distinction, although I suppose it’s 11% larger, so proportionally extra. 

Decrease collars, like numerous my workwear shirts, are sometimes 4cm excessive. So the identical lower as this is a rise. The new Friday Polos have that, and once more the distinction is noticeable.  

Luca Museo are producing some actually good tailoring, at a reasonably reasonably priced value – $3800 for full bespoke, with different choices happening to $2000 (see checklist under). Additionally they have numerous type, which is obvious from their atelier in Seoul, and go to New York.

I’m unsure the minimize of the jackets is one I am going to wish to pursue going ahead, however I’m having a Neapolitan-style pea coat made that we fitted on the identical time, so will probably be attention-grabbing to see how that seems. 

For extra particulars on Luca Museo, see our introductory article right here. 

Luca Museo supply three ranges of make: Blue, White and Black label.
– Black is the complete bespoke, this swimsuit
– White is bespoke minimize and fitted, however with some work (eg chest padding) performed by machine
– Blue is made to measure, largely machine made and outsourced

Beginning costs for every degree (for a two-piece swimsuit) are $2,000, $2,500 and $3,800. Trunk reveals are presently held in New York, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Bangkok and Taiwan. All Asian trunk reveals are hosted by Coller (costs would possibly range there barely).

lucamuseo.com
@lucamuseo